Quality used cars, trucks, sport utilities (SUV), and vans in Coweta, Oklahoma, near Tulsa, Oklahoma Used cars, trucks, sport utilities, and vans in above average condition and below average price. Chevy, GMC, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep Do you have plans to go to Branson? Check out Larry and Joan's Branson Condos (click here) LARRY'S LEMON ELIMINATORS We hope that you will purchase a vehicle from us; however, if we do not have the vehicle you want at the price you desire, we hope the following information will be of great help to you as you make your selection. I have personally compiled this information through many years of my own experience in buying thousands of used vehicles for resale. It will greatly reduce the chances of regret after your purchase if you use this information to thoroughly check out a vehicle before you buy. Tips on Buying a Used Vehicle Understand the Warranty Understanding the warranty is of primary importance. Most used car dealers sell all their vehicles AS IS unless you buy an extended warranty. AS IS means exactly that and if the car breaks in two pieces on the way home you still own both pieces. It is important to know that the dealer is bound only to the final agreement that is presented in writing regardless of what he has told you during the sale. Don't Sign Till You Read Many dealerships will keep you away from knowing the actual purchase price and focus the negotiations only on the monthly payment. The most important figure on the contract is the "AMOUNT FINANCED". We have had many conversations over the years with people who didn't realize what they had signed till several days later. Many of them were obligated to pay thousands of dollars more than they thought they had agreed to pay. The biggest risk is if you still owe on the vehicle you are trading and you are financing at the dealership. In the process of what I call "the magic number game" many times the customer will actually give the dealer their vehicle and still be obligated for the entire pay off of the trade in. Most people call that stealing. Once you sign the contract you do not have a right to cancel. That right only applies to in-home solicitation (door to door sales). Check for Evidence of Oil Consumption: There are two ways to do this; first, check for smoke coming from the tailpipe, both when you are sitting still and when you are driving. The second way is to check what is called blowby. This is done very simply by removing the cap where you put the oil in. Do this after the car has run a few minutes. If there is excessive smoke coming from the opening, this is called blowby and most likely the car will use some oil and eventually need to be overhauled. Check the Rack and Pinion: This is the part that controls the power steering. It is most effectively checked when the car is first started. Simply turn the steering wheel all the way both directions. If it turns easily both ways it is OK. However, if it has a hard spot when you first turn it but then turns easily, or if it turns hard one way and easily the other, it is already gone. Look for Oil Leaks: Make sure you look under the vehicle for evidence or oil leaks Some accumulation of oil is normal on a vehicle with over 50,000 miles; however, if it looks like it has been dripping or is about to drip it will probably need repaired in the near future. Check the Transmission: When you put it in gear, it should go into gear immediately. If it takes more than 1-2 seconds, it has a problem. When you test drive the car, drive it as hard as you normally drive and drive it at least 5-10 miles. Don't just baby it around the block. Make sure that it shifts smoothly and that the number of shifts corresponds to the number of gears. Check the Front End Alignment: Get on a smooth road and hold the steering wheel lightly to see if the car pulls to one side or the other. It should go reasonably straight with very little correction. Don't forget that a crosswind will affect this. Also be aware of what is called 'play' in the steering wheel. Make sure the car responds to slight movement of the steering wheel. If it does have play in the steering wheel or pulls to one side, then it probably needs to be aligned. Check the Brakes: When you test drive the car, roll the window down and come to a complete stop. Listen for squeaking or growling noises that quit when you let off the brake. If you hear the noise with the brake on but not when you release it, then you need brake repairs. After checking for noise, then come to a normal stop holding the steering wheel gently. Notice if the car pulls to one side as you apply the brakes. Also notice if the car surges or vibrates when you apply the brakes. If it pulls, squeaks or vibrates, you need brake repairs. Check the Air Conditioner: If it is hot weather, just turn it on and if it keeps you cool during a 10 -15 minute test drive, it's probably OK. However, in cooler weather, it is hard to tell if it is working properly. Checking the AC in cooler weather is easier with 2 people. Raise the hood and start the motor. Have the person in the car turn the AC on and off at 5 second intervals. You should hear it click each time it is turned on and off. If you can not hear it click it is not working. If the belt has been removed from the air conditioner compressor, the compressor is probably locked up and will need to be replaced. Check the Electrical System: This also requires 2 people. Stand in front of the car and have the person in the car turn the key on so the turn signals will work. Have them turn on the left signal, then the right, turn on park lights, head lights, (both bright and dim), and flashers. Then go to the back of the car and do the same thing. Don't forget to try the brake lights. It's hard to check during the day, but also try to make sure the dash lights and interior lights work as well. If it is just a burned out bulb, it can be fixed for a few dollars, but if it is an electrical problem it could be very expensive. Also check the cruise control, radio, tape player, gauges, power seats, power windows, and any other Power equipment. Check the Internal Motor: Most people will get in the car while it is sitting still and hit the accelerator three or four times while they listen to the motor. A better way to check it is to push the accelerator very slowly and listen closely to the motor as the speed increases. Many internal noises can only be heard at certain speeds. Be listening for a clicking, tapping, rattling or any noise that doesn't sound normal. Also, when you re looking under the hood, notice if the motor is vibrating or moving a lot. It should be reasonably still. You should definitely have a mechanic check it out if you are still interested in a car whose motor is vibrating or if you hear noises. Check the CV Joints: If the car is a front wheel drive, it will have what are called CV joints. They are like a driveshaft that goes to each front wheel. During your test drive, find a place where you can safely make a complete 360 degree turn. Roll the windows down and make at least one complete circle. Listen for a clicking noise, then turn the other way and do the same thing. Either side making noise indicates that the CV joint on that side is bad. Finally, don't forget the more obvious things like belts, hoses, mufflers, tires and cracked windshields. It is a wise thing to ask to have a mechanic check out the vehicle if you are not sure of its condition. If the dealer does not want you to take it to a mechanic you probably shouldn't buy it there. Good luck with your search and we hope you don't buy anywhere till you check with us! Larry and Joan